But in my eyes, white hanfu clothing is the most romantic color. These garments and accessories were not just clothing but a rich visual narrative of the Ming Dynasty’s culture and societal norms. Their garments were unchanged. Rules on how to wear, fold, and tie garments were followed meticulously to project an image of grace, modesty, and respect. To put on a male Hanfu, start by wearing the Yi (robe or tunic), followed by either the Chang (skirt) or Ku (trousers), then add the Pao (overcoat) if needed. Although this is typically a male attire from the Tang to Ming Dynasties, women during the Tang Dynasty considered it extremely fashionable to dress like the boys! Like the qungua, the Betawi bridal dress is a two-piece set of attire which composed of an ankle-length with wider bottom skirt called kun and an upper garment called tuaki. By the High and Late Tang, the Shan 衫 had a much deeper collar and wider sleeves that gave an air of elegance. During the Song Dynasty (960 AD – 1279 AD), the Yuanlingpao took on a similar form with wider sleeves and during the Ming (1368 – 1644), the Yuanlingpao were decorated with large square patches called Buzi 补子to denote court status.

With the advent of metallic buttons called Zimukou 子母扣, standing collar styles (by far the most iconic characteristic of Chinese clothing) became widespread. 82 They viewed the Ming as having been affected by Mongolian customs in terms of clothing customs (e.g. with their hair hanging down the back, white teeth, short clothing, long sleeves, and bright and lustrous robes and caps) despite returning to the ways of Han and Tang and the people of Lao as wearing Indian-style clothing like the robes of Buddhist monks “like the irrigated fields of dysfunctional families”. 36 Some Mohe people however managed to become part of the ruling elite of Bohai. The Communist Youth League organised a Chinese National Costume Day for the first time last year urging people to share their ethnic outfits online. Depending on the dynasty and time period, the hanfu style ranges from colorful and extravagant to simple and modest.

The shape and structure of Chinese upper garments, generally referred as yi (衣), varied depending on the time period. The upper jacket is treated with Pipa sleeves, and the lower is a horse face skirt. It could be used as a jacket and was thrown over the shoulders like a cloak, which made women looked more masculine. It consists of a Ru 襦 (blouse or jacket) worn on top and a Qun 裙 (long skirt) worn on the bottom. Hanfu outfits have loose-fitting upper sleeves and bottom. A common accessory you’ll see with many Qixiong Ruqun outfits from the Sui, to sometimes in the Song Dynasty, chinese traditional clothing name was the Pibo 披帛. Careful friends can also see that many murals have palace maids wearing round collared robes. Both robes were fastened with a belt called Dai 带, and could either be made of magnificent brocades, or simple cloth depending on your wealth. Long, dangling charms that hung from the Dai 带 would make a charming twinkle noise as the wearer walked and helped keep the flaps of the Shenyi from flying up. There are two main forms of Shenyi 深衣: Zhijupao 直裾袍 “straight hem robe”, pink cheongsam short or Qujupao 曲裾袍 “curved hem robe”.

Zhiju 直裾 remained mostly the same throughout its popularity in hanfu fashion, but Quju 曲裾 varied in amount of wraps around the body, ranging from multiple to a singular wrap. The Shenyi 深衣 is typically a one-piece robe that wraps around the body once or multiple times, literally translating as “wrapping the body deep within the clothes”. These two versions of Shenyi were interchangeable between sexes as there were no strict emperor-made rules about womenswear and menswear during the earlier dynasties. Depending on the material they were called different names, but the most popular style of Jinbu 禁步 for Shenyi hanfu is the Yupei 玉佩 “Jade Ornaments”. As agricultural development increased, more clothing material appeared. Trần dynasty clothing as depicted in “The Mahasattva Trúc Lâm Coming Out of the Mountains”. The paofu, on the other hand, has its upper and lower part made out of a single fabric leading to the absence of middle seam between the upper and lower part. During the Middle and Late Tang, floral prints on skirts were favored as the dyeing capabilities of the flourishing empire drastically improved. There were variety of skirts during the Tang dynasty. There are a ton of great resources out there like @ziseviolet on tumblr, who is my favorite resource for new hanfu lovers!

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